anasazi velcro vcs
This is the thing. This was probably the first pair of shoes that I owned when I started to take climbing a bit more seriously. They were tight to break in but once in their prime, were the best shoes since sliced bread or, well, nutella on bread. They weren’t too aggressive but were still precise and sticky as hell. I found the heel too big, always did….even when they were tight but this proved to be a benefit when I needed to fit my little lady heel into major holes. I usually keep an arsenal of shoes with me for different styles and techniques so this filled a gap, for sure.
Years passed and I had long forgotten about this shoe and only fond memories of their performance resurfaced in my mind. I had been confused. Fiveten were busy producing shiny new products that I was beguiled to buy…and I did, not even remembering the contributions this older model made to my climbing progression….until this year when I became reacquainted, certain that I needed to add a flat shoe to my bag of tricks. Man have I been disappointed in what this shoe has become for me. My toes are crammed in a ridiculously painful position, the toe box forces my foot into an even more unnatural place than most aggressive climbing shoes where I spend at least an agonizing 5 minutes after I take them off making crazy pain noises while my toes readjust. I don’t know what has changed but I don’t like it. The heel has always been a question and now the forefoot has been added to the mix. So….is it worth the purchase? hmmmm,…maybe not, there are definitely better models to choose from.